Saturday, April 25, 2020

Cat Cafe

Seoul is famous for its cat cafes, and I wanted to peek inside to see how they looked. I'm normally highly allergic to cats and as soon as I get a whiff of them my nasal passages close up like a clam, but the owner beckoned me inside and I thought I'd get a few photos. I sanitized my hands, slipped on the specially provided slippers, and sat down at a table, hoping that the cats would respect the 2 meter social distancing guidelines.

As soon as I was seated, a few cats sidled on up to me. Uh oh. I braced myself for the sinus attack as one of them proceeded to crawl up my chest towards my face.

But it didn't come.

At first I thought maybe it'd just take a minute to kick in, but then I remembered my face mask. It must be blocking the dander.

What a lucky break, I guess I can come to cat cafes now. If you've never been to one because you're allergic, once local ordinances permit it I definitely recommend taking advantage of the fact that it's now socially acceptable to rock an N95 in public and check out a cat cafe.

Thursday, April 23, 2020

Good Enough Burger

I stumbled across this burger restaurant. They're tag-line is "Why pay more? It's good enough." At first, I thought this was a terrible marketing tactic. Why not settle for a barely passing burger? And then I discovered this appears to be a very successful chain with franchise locations all over Seoul.

So finally I bit. Is this burger really good enough? It's only $1.50.



Was it good enough? So this was a close call, but I'm gonna go with no. Not good enough. Not even for $1.50. So much mayo.

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Update: I've eaten here several times now and it's definitely good enough. I was thinking about it all wrong. They're not trying to make a serious burger, they're trying to compete with McDonalds and Burger King on price. Their burgers are about as good as McDonalds or Burger King burgers, but cheaper. If you are in a hurry and want a trashy but delicious fast food chain burger, why pay more? It's good enough.

Monday, April 20, 2020

Hongdae Nightlife

In an attempt to make some friends here in Korea, I've been trying to establish myself as a regular at a language exchange bar called Playground. Every night, they host a language exchange meetup and provide stickers with flags from different countries so people can show which languages they speak. It's about half Koreans and half foreigners, mostly from Europe and the US.

You can see students from the nearby university doing choreographed dances (perhaps k-pop trainees or students at one of the performing arts schools) in the park across the street from the bar. Here are a few in their tracksuits in the chilly spring weekday night performing for a very thin crowd.

On weekdays like this one, there are usually less than a dozen people who come through Playground throughout the night, but on Saturday the number shot up to 20+ people.

Playground Bar closed around 2am and people went bar-hopping afterward. Young people in Hongdae seem pretty nonchalant about the virus, here's a shot of the revelers spilling out onto the streets for cigarettes or a place to puke. Most of them are not wearing masks, and while there are many foreigners (who do seem to wear masks less in general), it's mostly Koreans.


Hanging out in Hongdae I get the sense that the threat has passed and people have already returned to normal, and yet many people elsewhere in the city who I talk to on HelloTalk (a popular local language exchange app) are still trying to avoid social contact altogether.

Today, the government officially began relaxing some of its more extreme measures. 
"Administrative orders on churches, bars, gyms and cram schools that strongly recommended their temporary closure will be lifted on the condition that they comply with strict quarantine rules."
If there's no second wave, on May 5th we'll downgrade to what's called "routine distancing". I'm sketchy on the details of what that looks like, but it sounds like continued temperature scans, hand sanitizer, and face masks but it'd be okay to go to work or school again. The requirements to get there are under 50 cases a day and at least 95% of them traceable.

Right now, we've been well within those guidelines, but the government wants to wait until after April 30 (Buddha's birthday and a long weekend in Korea) to do that. We just have to stay under 50 cases a day and over 95% traceability until then. If we fail though, it seems pretty plausible the cause could be Hongdae. An official from the Mapo-gu district where Hongdae is located told The New Yorker their biggest fear is a super-spreader, saying "The biggest problems are gaming cafés, churches, and Hongdae clubs".

My first day out of quarantine I was positive I didn't have it because I'd just been in isolation for 15 days, so I felt pretty comfortable going out of the house. You can't spread it until you've got it after all. Now that I've been free for a few days though, I'm getting more nervous.

Then I got this alert.

This one's in Mapo-gu, that's my district. A guy pretty close to my age. Came in through the same airport I did. He went to the Ministop convenience store? Is that my convenience store? I think mine is a Ministop. Is this the same address? Nope, 29 World Cupbuk-ro, this isn't my street, this one is closer to the subway stop.

Woah, this guy only went to one place in three days. Just the Ministop, other than that he self-isolated. Wow, I'm glad he didn't come to Playground Bar for the meetup. What if my location history ends up on an emergency alert? Will my gym have to close? Will the meetup shut down? What will people think of the fact that I went to three places today?

I get why they do this. People say the gender and age of the patient aren't relevant, and I suppose medically it's not, but it sure makes the alerts more visceral.

Should I stop going to the meetup? The government just eased the restriction, cases are at an all-time low, and the bartender told me to come in tomorrow to volunteer since they don't have anyone on Tuesdays who know the ropes. Man, I hope I'm not a super-spreader.

Thursday, April 16, 2020

Freedom Hangover

I think I had a little too much freedom yesterday. There was no alcohol in quarantine, and I'm not a big drinker anyway, I'm really struggling with this hangover. Today I've been inside most of the day. The Airbnb has one of those cheap little projectors you can get for a few hundred bucks nowadays so I hooked it up and have just been watching Tiger King and rehydrating.

I wanted to get some protein so I went to the convenience store on the corner for snacks. There were a ton of seafood snacks that would definitely not sell in the US. I picked up these little crab pieces because they had some English on the label so I could figure out what it was. I couldn't hack it though, got two bites in and threw the rest away. Oh well, back to bed then.

Wednesday, April 15, 2020

First Day of Freedom

Apologies for the delay in posting, I got carried away enjoying my freedom. I checked out and walked outside and delighted in the ability to walk more than ten steps without having to turn around.

Shops are open, and some people have even taken their masks off. I was able to buy a more fashionable black mask at a convenience store on the corner, no lines, no rationing, I even had a choice between several brands.

I met up with James Chae for dinner, he took me out to a Korean barbecue joint where an old married couple was celebrating the national holiday by getting completely hammered. Afterwards, he brought me by the university where he teaches design, and then to a bar in the neighborhood.

Drinking in Korea is apparently always accompanied by snacks and today we had peanuts and anchovies. You tear the tiny little head off and then pop the rest of it. It's incredibly salty so it pairs naturally with beer.


Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Quarantine Day 15: The Last Day

Today is my last day in quarantine. Curious what the Korea I will meet tomorrow has been up to, I decided to translate one of my government alerts.

I haven't been bothering lately because it's a hassle to screenshot them, upload the image to my laptop, run it through OCR, and then paste it into a translator, which is the only way I can figure out what they say. I've tried retyping the hangul characters by hand, but Korean is agglutinative so you have to figure out which strokes to type in which order, and without any knowledge of the grammar you can get stuck on a single block for a while.

This one said:
"Central Election Management Committee 4.15. When you go to vote on the election day of the National Assembly, be sure to bring a mask and identification card and practice distance from other electors."
According to The Korea Herald, my first day of freedom is coincidentally also the day of the world's first pandemic election.

James mentioned he would be off work for a national holiday when we arranged to meet for dinner, but it hadn't occurred to me to ask why. I wonder if he's going to vote. I'll be staying far away from the polls, heading to Hongdae to check into my new Airbnb and finally getting to do some laundry.

Monday, April 13, 2020

Quarantine Day 14: Extra Day Penalty

I thought I'd be able to check out tomorrow but my first day in quarantine wasn't counted. Apparently the clock starts the day after you arrive. So Wednesday will be my first day back on the outside.

I'm planning to meet up with James in Hongdae, which is looking like the best neighborhood for me to settle down in. It's much easier to get around there with just English because of the universities nearby, it's relatively cheap, and there's a language exchange meetup that meets daily at a bar. If it's still happening of course, although it looks like it is.

I was a regular at a language exchange meetup in NYC and it was kind of a turnkey social circle. Perhaps it'll be the same here. As long as it doesn't turn into a cluster....apparently one popped up in Itaewon which is another reason why Hongdae is at the top of my list.

Now I just need to book an Airbnb. There are not a lot of good options, everything is tailored to students bunking in groups. I think I found a decent option but it seems a little sketchy, might be false advertising.

No matter where I end up, I'm sure it'll be better than this quarantine hotel room. There's on thing I'll miss though: the electric toilet seat warmer. I dunno why we don't have these in America.